A Contemporary take to Art Deco Jewelry

Posted by Vaibhav Dhadda on

About Art Deco Period

As famously known, Art Deco movement was born at the Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes, a monumental exhibition in Paris in 1925. The end of World War I was finally the beginning of a new era, especially for the world of art, luxury and fashion. Machine age was left past and technology was being celebrated. More women were enrolled for the designing job. With a modernist approach towards innovation, the design patterns were being evolved into liberating forms with a desire for order in the wake of chaos.


Master Jewellers along with artists and architects experimented with nature based motifs, sleek and wavy lines. In favour of the clean lines of modernity, their work gave way to defined geometric shapes, designs, colours and contrasts as the new identity of Art Deco.

The art deco movement broke the shackles of the past. Art Deco Jewelry is characterised by a clean combination of geometric lines along with sleek and bold look; sharp edges; and regularity of surface, line and volume. Deriving inspiration for Architectural structures, these geometric shaped jewels share a more linear and streamlined form throughout its design elements.

The Leaders of the Movement

Connoisseurs in Jewelry Industry like Van Cleef and Arpels, René Boivin, Ostertag, Paul Brandt, Raymond Templier and Fouquet, have played an extremely role in shaping the features of Art Deco Jewelry, especially by use of bold coloured gemstones.

Van Cleef & Arpels’ Jewels depicting geometrical lines using semi precious gemstones during Art Deco Era.

New Materials and Combinations

The colour combinations used in Art Deco Jewelry are strong, more often unorthodox. It features combinations of many natural coloured gemstones like Ruby, Emerald, Onyx, Lapis Lazuli, rock crystal and many more. Diamonds are more often used to accentuate the exhibition of such strong colours. Art Deco Jewelry can be set in precious metals like Gold & Silver.

One could observe that the women’s clothing became streamlined and so did jewelry. Art Deco jewelry weren’t necessarily simpler; instead large gemstones were rejected in favour of smaller ones, brilliant-cut diamonds.


1. Green Tourmaline Sword Diamond Pendant Brooch | 2. Ruby Diamond Art Deco Style Studs

Why Art Deco Jewelry? / Relevance of Art Deco Jewelry

Advancement in craftsmanship drove many trends in Jewelry designing during the Art Deco period. One of the most significant design element featured enhancement of geometrical shapes using calibré cut gemstones. These stones were intricately cut  and polished by hand to follow the geometrical shape of the jewel. The design elements portrayed strong colours along the borders of these geometrical shapes. It lead to inventive stone cutting and setting techniques like Mystery Set Jewels.


Art Deco Jewelry design continues to invent itself in many ways. Also evident is the liking towards the Art Deco Jewels, as this type of Jewelry is still an absolute favourite at auction houses. The experts prefer it more for the timeless elegance of the clean lines style in the jewels. The simplicity in geometrical shapes and vibrant bold colours attributes to the endless styling and designing possibilities within this genre, so much so that everyone of us can actually find a style of our own in Art Deco period!



Amongst collectors at the Sotheby’s and Christie’s Art Deco is the strongest jewelry category, with consistent growth every year.

Later in the Art Deco period, when women’s fashions acquired a more structural component, ear-clips and double-clip brooches became popular which has become all the more relevant in these times where comfort, convenience and elegance is the need
of the hour.

Custom Cut Gems

Geometric designs were quintessential of the Art Deco style that flourished from Paris between 1920 and 1935. It became famous by the master craftsmen who created the beautiful works of Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels and Boucheron, designs that are still valued and popular today.

As a result, Calibre cut stones became an important part of Art Deco jewelry design.

Calibre cut stones or tapered baguettes are custom gemstones that are cut specifically to fit into jewelry design. They are tightly spaced together against other stones or metal and have quite the impact on the overall design. With a dedicated effort since 2013 years, we have mastered the technique of cutting the baguettes into tapered shapes and channel setting them to create patterns from dark to light.


1. Yellow Sapphire Diamond Set | 2. Pink Tourmaline Circle Set

Contemporary jewelry using Art Deco influences

Upon asking some antique jewellery experts why they think Art Deco continues to perform so strongly today, Sarah Duncan of Chiswick Auctions believes that the art deco jewels lend themselves so well to contemporary fashions and trends and credits the clean simple lines motifs for the popularity of the jewels even in today’s times.


1. Citrine Diamond Pendant Brooch |  2. Green Tourmaline Diamond Earrings

How is our Art Deco Jewelry collection different from other jewelry offerings in the market?

If you are interested in buying art deco jewels, when you get the chance to visit London, do plan a visit to the V&A museum and observe jewelry. It has one of the best historic collections of jewels in the world and many exemplary specimens from the Art Deco period. “Buy the very best you can afford within your budget,” Vaibhav recommends. “Go for what you love and you can’t go wrong.”the clean simple lines motifs for the popularity of the jewels even in today’s times.


1. Ruby Temple Bell Earrings | 2. Blue Sapphire Temple Bell Pendant

Vaibhav Dhadda Jewellery reflects a contemporary twist to the essence of Art Deco period in all its Jewels. The symmetrical asymmetry in our designs makes our pieces timeless yet always fresh. It took us more than 7 years to master the technique of calibre cutting the stone to tapered baguettes to fit the shape of the motif just perfectly. Hand-picked selection of best gemstones like Ruby, Emerald, Sapphire, Tourmalines, Aquamarines, Garnet, Amethyst, Citrine, Topaz and more; are intricately cut to meet the geometrical design specification of our jewels. We strive to experiment with bold colour combinations, inspired from nature, apart from classic Monotone colors – a modernist approach. Art deco period was definitely known for the use of audacious colors – thus the use of opaque gemstones like turquoise, onyx, lapis lazuli in combination with lustrous precious and semi-precious also features in few of our products.

You can view the art deco inspired Gradient jewelry collection here.

“With every piece of jewellery we make, we will continue to challenge the status quo. We have always aimed to think differently. Our jewellery is identified with high quality, elegance, innovation and beautiful design.” – Vaibhav Dhadda

You can get in touch with us directly to get consultation for your art deco jewels

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